Most Pro PCTG problems trace back to the same handful of causes. Get these five right and most prints come out clean the first time.
- Use our profile for your exact printer and nozzle, filament and process both. The filament profile sets temperature and cooling. The process profile sets speed and acceleration, which matter just as much. Download Pro PCTG profiles. See Importing profiles and fixing profiles that won’t show up.
- Calibrate pressure advance. This is the single biggest factor in clean Pro PCTG prints. Don't reuse a PETG or PLA value. See Pressure advance: why it matters.
- Print slower than you would PETG. Pro PCTG is thick and viscous when molten. Most blobs, zits, and weak parts come from printing too fast or accelerating too hard.
- Keep it dry. Dry at 70°C for 6–8 hours (or 65°C for 8–12 hours) if it's been exposed, and store it sealed with desiccant. See Drying and storage.
- Use a clean textured PEI plate at 80°C. Wash it with hot water and dish soap. Pro PCTG usually sticks too well, not too little.
A quick check that you're dialed in
Pro PCTG should come out glossy. Dull or matte patches in a standard color usually mean that section printed too fast or too cold, and those areas have weaker layer bonding. See Glossy vs. matte: reading your prints. (Matte Black is the exception; its finish comes from carbon fiber.)
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