Bed Adhesion, Warping, and Removing Prints

Pro PCTG normally sticks very well, so adhesion problems usually point to a dirty plate or the wrong surface.

Prints not sticking

• Wash the plate with hot water and dish soap, and wipe with isopropyl alcohol between washes. This fixes most adhesion problems.
• Use textured PEI at 80°C. Don't use glue on textured PEI; it makes adhesion worse.
• Check Z offset. Gaps, rough lines, or plowed first layers usually mean the nozzle is too close or too far.
• Slow the first layer and raise first-layer nozzle temperature 5–10°C.
• Dry the filament if one spool sticks worse than others.

Warping or corners lifting on big parts

• Raise the bed 5°C at a time; 85–90°C is fine.
• Cut cooling fan speeds in half.
• Add a brim.
• Keep enclosure doors closed if you have one.

Build plates

• Textured PEI: recommended.
• Bare smooth PEI: avoid. Pro PCTG can bond so well it damages the sheet. If you need a smooth bottom, use glue stick as a release layer.
• Third-party plates: we've had good results with BIQU Cryogrip and Darkmoon3D plates.

Removing prints

Let the plate cool completely; parts release much more easily. For automated part removal, raising the first layer height slightly makes release easier.

Plastic stuck to the plate after a failed print

Print something larger over it. The new print bonds to the stuck plastic and lifts it off with the part.

Still stuck? Contact our support team with photos, your printer and nozzle, your slicer, and any changes you made to our profile. A project file (.3mf) helps most.